HELP! Alna broke her spine D:
Thu 2011/07/28 10:37 JST
i just tried to move her into a prone position (bending her back a bit) and her spine snapped >_>
any suggestions? i'm thinking of putting a peg inside first before gluing, but what kind of glue?
OMG! >.< this happened to me before with one of my older dollfies, I replace the middle with obitsu lower abdomen inner frame http://www.parabox.jp/eng/60in_ba.html cause glue isn't enough to fix it sadly.....I tried haha and failed. Also after I got the Obitsu inner skeleton i found the tutorial on how to fix the spine a cheaper and better way http://f59.aaa.livedoor.jp/~ivesound/doll_mant2.htm but your gonna need some tools ^^'.
Well I wish you luck and hope this works!
Motoko~
I would suggest small pins on the 90 degree mark from the seems. and use Zap-a-gap type of glue (superglue for modeling purposes, but like most superglue no shear strength) This is why the small pins will be critical to a long term repair. Unless you want to disassemble further I would keep the glue from the seams, it does not take a lot of it to do a good repair.
Materials: Small, stiff metal (like safety pins); Super Glue; Larger metal rod (like clothes hanger; 2 part epoxy.
Tools: Penvise Drill; Wire Clippers; File; Sandpaper
Step 1: Take the joint completely apart so you can have full access.
Step 2: Drill and Pin along the broken section, with matching drill holes in the broken peg.
Step 3: Super glue the pieces together and let cure a full hour.
Step 4: Cut 2 lengths larger rod to so it won't rub the waist joint when reassembled.
Note: Laying the rod in the channel, it shouldn't sit above the top edge of the channel.
Step 5: Mix 2 part epoxy and fill the channel with the rod completely submerged. Let cure overnight.
Step 6: File and sand the epoxy so the pieces fit together well without a bulge between them and without rubbing the rest of the hip joint when reassembled.
Note: You may have to redrill one of the bolt holes.
Step 7: Put it all back together.
After that you should have a repaired and reinforced spine with mostly salvaged materials.
thx, will try to look for 2part epoxy
The most annoying part of owning a dollfie :( Fortunately, the upcoming DDIIIs will apparently be sold with the internal frames inside, so "buy replacement parts" will become an option...
Terribly annoying how Volks doesn't offer to fix or replace damaged DDII internal frame parts at any price after the initial honeymoon fortnight. :(
Very true. If I still had all my stuff for smelting and casting aluminum I'd be tempted replace the frame outright. But would cost me about as much as another DD base body to get everything I would need.
it would also introduce some significant weight imbalancing around the DD... remember, you can replace the internal frame, but you can't exactly turn your DD into a iron girl :/
It would to a degree, but since the entire frame would be replaced it would be just as balanced as before. She'd defiantly weigh more, but in using aluminum you gain a significant amount of reinforcement for roughly double the weight of the plastic skeleton. Now if you tried to replace just certain pieces then you'd run into trouble with throwing her off balance.
thx guys, u've been really helpful XD
the only thing i got at home is UHU all purpose adhesive...it says it works on abs plastics
and i can't quite get access to the part 'cause the chest piece is very tight and pretty much unremovable without pliers.
i also have tamiya cement...not sure if that would even work at all
I would use a quick set 2 part epoxy. Most other glues will not provide the hold you need. You will have to remove the vinyl outside pieces, though. It's important that you make sure to clamp the pieces you are gluing together in some way while the glue sets.
Sorry to hear that, when I read the title of your post its just me said 'ACKT!' >_<
Hope you can get her fix soon.
friend of mine got a pin vise drill and tamiya epoxy putty
will try this soon.
I'm sorry to hear her back broke. I'm still new to dollfie so i dont have much on advise, but i hope u get it fixed soon.
This is why I'm by-and-large on Team Obitsu. It's good to know if I need to replace a part that Parabox is always there, and that usually Junky Spot can order Parabox stuff and charge me a fair price for shipping rather than having to deal with EMS. I love the look of Volks Dollfie Dream...they are aesthetically more pleasing...but Obitsu is getting better on that score (case in point: smexy 65cm dude) and I just know that I'll be able to do some dollieh surgery if necessary.
Which may explain why the new option DDS parts actually come with pieces of the internal frame in them instead of being hollow like the DDII parts. Granted, it still implies that Volks wants you to buy a whole new arm if you just want to fix the shoulder, but it's still better than them expecting you to fork out for a whole body. . . Hopefully they'll do the same for the DDIII and later body upgrades.
The option parts might have frames in them now, but then on the other hand, if you only want the parts to replace stained vinyl, it ends up being costlier than if you were after the frame parts. If Volks were being user friendly, the parts would be sold seperately frame/body parts.
Blech, you're right; I forgot about how people use them to replace stained vinyl sometimes, since the zit cream gets rid of all but the worst stains usually. I suppose if Volks were truly user friendly, they'd sell zit cream along with selling the vinyl and the internal frame pieces separately. As it is, Volks' attitude towards making things user serviceable kind of reminds me of Apple: the stuff is nice, and looks way cooler than the competition, but they make it a huge pain to maintenance or upgrade things on your own. =P
I had this same thing happen to me on my Manami. It was easily repaired with this product:
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/adhesives_sealants/epoxies/Permatex_PermaPoxy_5_Minute_Plastic_Weld.htm
I got it at a local auto parts store for less than 7 dollars and it works PERFECTLY.
All you need to do is use it as directed. Just make sure you get the two pieces that were stuck in the tube on the top half of the torso lined up where they used to be on the lower part before you epoxy them back together. Then mix the parts up as directed and use a toothpick to put it on both the parts and on the area they will be attached to. Hold them down firmly with your hands for FIVE MINUTES. Once they are firmly in place there, mix up more epoxy and then add it all around the outside of the base of where you just epoxied them back. This will help make the whole area super sturdy when its dry.
Now, no matter what, let that epoxy dry for FIVE HOURS. It says on the package it only needs 4 hours but trust me, let it dry for 5 before you touch it. DO NOT mess with it before 5 hours no matter how much you want your girl back together! =3
I did this exact fix on Manami and now she is as strong as ever. I have had NO issues with posing her normally at all. I was amazed at how well this fix worked. I hope it works out for you as well. ^_^
thx XD i'll have to find a store that sells this though. I bought some ABS cement but i haven't opened it yet. any idea if that'll work?
ABS cement usually only works on ABS plastic. So if it were me, I'd try the stuff I listed first just to be sure it will bond properly. Check out any auto parts store, they will have the stuff I linked to for under 10 bucks.
i ended up using ABS cement since the internal skeleton was ABS plastic as well
it worked!! omg i'm so happy right now
it's so strong it's not even bending given my strongest attempt to bend it >_>
....resisting the urge to test it to its limits...
Ah great! I'm glad that worked out for you and Alna! It's good to hear your method worked, now people have another way to repair a broken girl and save the girl and some money. =3
Considering that the bottleneck shape isn't at a crucial point of the frame. I would consider reinforcing it with a tube on the inside(try to get one that fits fairly snug, preferably brass or Aluminum, running a few brass pins around the outside where the taper on the pin tucks in to add extra structural support(4 pins on either side should be more than enough), the filling the exposed pin areas with an epoxy putty(different to epoxy glues as these can be shaped before drying) to just hide the work and make you not feel so bad about it.
Just using epoxy glue can fix the joint, but IMO, having some extra support in the form of metal on both the inside/outside of the break would give it extra stability in the long run.
i got a copper tube inside and filled it with tamiya epoxy putty, so far that broke again;
problem now is the part is filled with epoxy and i have to clean it up before trying anything else lol
You want to be using an epoxy glue for gluing the tube into the socket, not the putty(which is rather low-tac, and will come off fairly easily), If it's not working so well, you might consider scoring the tube, or plastics with some rough grit sandpaper(180-grit, but remember to clean the parts of the particles before applying glue) to give it some hold.
Is the epoxy putty you applied dried solid, or is it still soft? If it's soft, then it hasn't cured properly, which may also have something to do with it not being quite so solid.
Finally, as these solutions are all theoretical(don't have a doll with the same break to test on here), the only solutions I can offer would be to over-engineer one by removing some screws, etc and drilling an extended hole for the copper rod to give it more leverage. This might involve making a bracket to hold the parts together, or permanately bonding the part together. Either way, the direction you go with is up to you.
it's dried as strong as stone, except there's not enough space between the 2 pieces, so it's still brittle; my option now is to either get a metal rod to completely replace the part, and use a screw to hold it into place with the bracket
or, ABS cement or this new permapoxy and retrying it with the plastic.
thx for the info, i'm trying so many diff methods, i think i'll destroy the part soon...lol
thx for everyone's help and inputs!
Alna's feeling better now :)