About some gundam paints
Hello again,when i finish my job yesterday,i was going to my friend's hideout to build my MG exia in his house (Good he was home alone)..i post this my MG exia (ignition mode series)& MG Strike nior gundam & some paints & marker.
I have some "gundam markers & a metallic gundam markers that look like a pentel pen & some "Top coat" gloss color.
my problem here is this Exia's silver blade,i try cut some pieces of plastic silver & paint it using a "top coat" glossy paint & when i try, the plastic became white dirt or something that can't remove (usually it's good to test) ^|||^
I use the "metallic color pentel pel pen" in my rared "black zoid" but now it's hard to find this remarkable black color, a "Black energy liger",the effect to paint is nice & shiny metal black.
My MG strike nior is finish to paint all parts (it's better than it paint thou), i finish build exia too & open light in his core..Nice green lights, gonna search to paint to normal the blades & do mark exia.. ^|||^
Hmm. I never used paint with gunpla before. I always had this question. How do you do those black panel lines? Do you just use a marker? Or do u use paintbrush? IDK anything about it.
I use "gundam markers" Good rather if try using a "pilot v5' or a "unipen 0.1 0r 0.2" mechanical pen good also (my friend of DC give some advice so i thank him) ^|||^
excuse me sir where can i buy a set of gundam markers in the Philippines?
thank you..
You can get some at cubao's Alimall. There's a hobby store next to the GUN shop. You can't miss it.
Here's a list of the places I know you can get stuff.
Toy's R Us (The don't sell markers last time I checked)
- Commonwealth's (Q.C.) Trinoma
- Greenhill's after Cainta
- Ayala's Glorietta, you can take the MRT to get stuff at Mega mall too.
Well it depends...I used spray paint. It came out quite fairly. Then used markers....boy those methods take practice alright.
but not all spray paints is good, they are paints that can eat PVC plastic, i need to look some "base coat" paint w/out a lacquer or a primer.
Panel lines can be done several ways:
)There are gundam markers that have an ultra-fine tip that are used specifically for panel lining, and you can rub off the excess to have nice, clean lines before it dries.
)you can manually paint the lines with an (air)brush, but this is more time-consuming, because you will have to mask the parts before using the (air)brush.
There are more ways, but I normally use a panel-lining marker.
ah thanks..but there are some hard to mark lines especially in some body part.
woah woah woah, you dont use an airbrush to panel line. what you might be thinking of is a panel line wash, where you heavily thin out you paints, then carefully brush them on to the lines, allowing them to bleed into the grooves, and wiping away the excess.
... i want to see someone airbrush panel lines now lol
mr. gerbil knows his stuff!
keep in mind that doing a wash can make the plastic brittle
how brittle it is?
I'll try and provide a detailed description to answer your question:
The quality of the plastic is strong enough resist cracking and a bit of thinner,
however excessive amounts of thinner can remove the plastic's flexibility and strength, making the chances of it cracking and breaking into a million pieces higher.
Think of the brittleness of a music cd's plastic case vs plastic from Tupperware.
Once the plastic becomes brittle, it is much more difficult to work with.
Hope this answers a lot of questions. Thanks.
Try Krylon Fusion. Thats what I used for gunpla before I had access to Mr. Hobby paints. They work out just fine and stick to all sorts of plastic. They also dry within minutes. Keep in mind, theyll be dry enough to hold, but not dry enough to handle roughly when posing them.
but krylon is too expensive, a tamiya paint, it is good??
Tamiya paint works just fine as well. Id use them too, but my local store doesnt carry them anymore. So im just going to have to use Mr. Hobby. Rest assured, both work just fine ! Oh and what part of the Philippines are you from ? Im from Pasig :]
Area 11 (tondo area)..
Oh cool. My lola lives there :]
senseij gotta question for you since you seem to know alot about painting gunpla asides from tamiya, mr hobby what other paint do you recommend since i live in bacolod and at best i can buy for paints are the one found in hardware stores
well i've been living in canada for the past 3 years and the last time I bought some paint back home was that spray can with an F1 car on it, you could go to motorcycle shops and buy those kinds of paint just ask for "the paint for helmets" (yung pang helmet na pintura) and they'll prolly be able to give you good choices.
they're laquer based paints to too much of it might eat up the plastic, so spray sparingly and do several thin coats if needed...and their primers are great to work with, matte finish and doesn't chip-off easily
what type of paint eats plastic? laquer? acrylic? so that i can avoid buying them
which the lacquer chemicals, i buy some paint that don't have these..
my suggestion is get an airbrush, and then slowly spray the paint to the pen ink storage
after that, spray it on your "whatever model" sprue, or where it was before being build
since some of those plastic MIGHT not have same chemical structure on their predecessor
so sprue is a good item to test does the paint will eat your model or not
i heard it from my senior, gunpla plastic is weaker against higher chemical substance like braking oil, industrial lacquer thinner, or enamel thinner (even tamiya enamel thinner)
while tamiya kits (tanks, planes, cars) are VERY resistant to those thing i mentioned, well, braking oil only
braking oil can strip lacquer paint, but he dunno if it will work on gunpla plastic or not
btw
lacquer & enamel CAN'T be peeled of with conventional liquid, or anything that's not corrosive to your skin
acrylic can be easily stripped by detergent water
i dunno about industrial acrylic, and acrylic epoxy do need lacquer thinner to be thinned
one of the issues with water based acrylics is that once air condenses around your hose and your compressor gets too hot you get water along with the paint and that ruins it finish UNLESS you have a setup where you've got a water trap
My friend buy that "mr hobby" paints in pasay area named "great toys'.
i know you can buy those mr.hobby at manila especially in greehills but i live in the province of bacolod and there are no hobby shop here so hard ware paints are the only ones i can find
so any spray paint aside from the ones with laquer won't eat the plastic right?
liek i said they "do" eat the plastic but not in small amounts, that's why if using these generic brands it's better to spray in coats
honestly why buy something as expensive as mr.hobby paints when you can achieve the same result with local brands?
i used to buy these paints back home, and use them via my air-brush (don't ask how, it's a long process)
anyway, so yeah you'll be safe from the plastic eating laquer paints as long as you spray in coats (would help if you had an airbrush :D)
(join mechapinoy if you need more indepth stuff, i left that group years ago...well i was kicked out kasi mashado daw akong maangas "coz i was too much of an @$$hole) LOL if you've got questions about how to build model-kits the cheap way, e-mail me :D (we'll talk in tagalog)
forgot to say, stay away from Plylox brand unless you've got an air-brush
Like I said earlier, you cant go wrong with Krylon Fusion. Its literally made for plastic and bonds to it like no other. I painted my psp with white krylon and it hasnt even scratched or chipped. I also keep it in my backpack among all places so its pretty durable for paint. If you can get your hands on some, I highly recommend it !
got any brand of paint that offers the same results?
i mean any other brands of paint (my bad)
Im not so sure what brands of paint they have there in the Philippines. Basically if you can find any paint that is used specifically for plastic, will be fine for you gunpla. Read the can and see if plastic is one in the list of applications.
tamiya is good too !
I'll pass by Special Toy Center down by Sta. Cruz later. I'll check if they got some stuff to work on that chromed out GN Blade. If I go ahead and get that Sinanju this Saturday, I'll pop some cash and get us some finepoint markers for them panel lines.
I think I'd go for some flat or semi-gloss this Exia. The full-on gloss looks bangin' on the black Energy Liger and Strike Noir. I'll go ahead and use those touch markers to add some pop once we get our paint on.
i have never applied topcoat to chromed parts before- but some things that might be wrong...
- did you decant the can?
- how close are you spraying?
- is it too thick?
most people i know just strip the bandai chrome and re-paint the blade later
why do you want to top coat the blade anyways?
yeap, as a model-kit builder, i'd rather strip the paint, sand down and re-apply primer then paint :( lengthy process but the end is worth it
how do you strip the paint of models for example akatsuki or the hyakushiki
2 ways
1.) dip the parts in mr.thinner for 2 seconds then wipe the paint with a soft bristle brush, repeat until chrome is removed
2.) use fine grit sand paper 1000 or 1200, sand every part that hs chrome, i usually sand down until at least 90% of the chrome is left, then paint over with primer, colour shade then actual colour
for (1) it's going to make the plastic extremely brittle like what ed142 said...so use caution, would suggest (1) only for completed kits and only needs minor paint repair, if it's a full build from the box, (2) would be the best, takes a lot of time but it's well worth it