chrome plating, hated by gunpla custom painters, why?
Sat 2009/11/07 04:17 JST
any reason why most gunpla hate chrome plating?
other than its REALLY obvious nub mark after being cut from its tree
do those plating add some sort of lubricant that can't be washed by dishes detergent?
or it can't be painted without de-plating it?
i mean, if we ended up using chrome color and then spray clear paint on it to produce candy effect, won't that finish the 1st phase already?
especially for 00 series "green"(emerald?) blades, since if we want to produce that color there's 2 types of condition i know
-a normal, clear plastic, paint it with clear colors
-a normal, any colored plastic, paint it with chrome 1st, & spray clear color on it
do you hate chrome plated kits? why?
Washing kits has nothing to do with the adhesion of paints to the surface. It's just that Chrome plated surfaces, as is isn't a good base to start painting on. You either need to a) sand it's surface down, b)Primer coat it, c)both.
Why pay more for a coating that you're just going to paint over?
the coating is sucks very easy to get scratch when you cut the parts from the runners >_<
Curse those chrome plated thingies, I never realized it up until they released Strike Freedom FBM and Destiny EBM. I wanted the Destiny Wings Of Light and Strike Free Dragoon Effect Parts but I wasn't willing to shell off about 2000 yen for a chrome plating I'll just strip off later.
So yeah, no Wings Of Light and Dragoon Effect Parts for me.
I don't particularly like chromed kits myself as i paint and customize the heck out of my gunpla (or any model for that matter). I do however like the occasional "peal colored" kit where the plastic itself is molded in a semi transparent color (i.e. PG Wing Gundam Zero Custom peal coating version) or the shimmer effect is molded into the plastic (i.e. 1/144 Transam Riser with GN Sword III) with a bit of polishing with fine grit sand paper, or a VERY sharp hobby knife and skill, those nub marks can be dealt with fairly easily.
Other than the fact that its a pain to paint them, I just usually don't like the look of it. There are a couple of exceptions, but the majority of the time I stay away from chromed kits.
They're more for the inexperienced gundam modeler who doesn't know how to paint. If you couldn't come up with that yourself.... :D You're dumb. :D
Custom modelers paint over everything anyways, so it's better to just go with a regular model kit.
Here's what to hate 'bout them..
- The nub marks are very visible when cut from a tree and is almost impossible to get rid of
- It costs expensive as hell when compared to their regular counterparts..
Some tips you might want to know..
- Washing the frames/trees before because of residue is a big freaking MYTH, seriously they're fine as they are.
- Buy a normal kit if you're planning on painting, why buy the metallic coated if you're gonna paint over it anyway..
RE: Washing kit frames--It's not because of residue. For the most part, I wash my frames and trees because I open up my kits and leave them for awhile while I review my manual. It seriously gets dusty in my place, so I -HAVE- to wash them and dry them before I start primer work...exception when I work on Zakus, then I -DO- want a rough, stubbly, messy exterior.
BTW: While there is no oily residue on Gunpla, that doesn't mean model kits from other companies won't have them. My brother works with car models and swears that he had to wash an Aoshima car kit because his paints actually slid off the kit. And since he's been modelling for more years than I have (despite being younger than me), I'll take his word to be better safe than sorry.
Was really talking about what a lot guys do about the washing the, washing it because it's dusty is a given
I'm talking about gunpla kits and nothing else.. =P
Ugh.. those blasted Aoshima Plamo's. God knows what the manufacturers do with them. It's like they've been sprayed with WD40 before they were packaged. Other than that, I haven't encountered any other kits that would need washing aside from resin garage kits.
I hate chromed kits. I really, REALLY =REALLY HATE= them. Seven damn good reasons for it.
1.) Metallic/Chrome Plated kits cost almost 2x the price of the original. an HGUC Hyaku-Shiki in Gold Plate generally costs the same as the HGUC Hyaku-Shiki (plain yellow plastic) with a Mega-Bazooka Launcher. If you don't believe me, check out your Gunpla catalog.
2.) It's really hard to seal and hide the part lines when putting them together because you have to emulate the exact chrome paint. Especially true if you screw up when cutting parts off the frame and accidentally pull off some of the chrome plating.
3.) Some metallic version kits just don't look that good--for example, the "Hyper" mode G-Gundam 1/144 kits are awful. The exceptions are usually kits that were intedned from the start to be metallic (Hyaku-Shiki, Akatsuki, and even then, it's debatable.
4.) Personally, I LOVE painting my Gunpla, and it's a lot of extra effort for me to strip off that paint (days, DAYS of immersion in caustic soda), wash it clean, THEN go to putting on primer, paint, the usual stuff. Yes, you could paint OVER the chrome plating, but I don't guarantee it'll look any good (or last). The folks at Hobby Japan and Dengeki Hobby, even if it's just a stock build, tend to strip off the metallic/chrome before building and painting their kits.
5.) Metallic plate tends to discolor over time. Especially if you live near the equator (Southeast Asia, Texas, Mediterranean, etc). You could probably use a Gloss UV Cut clear coat on it, but...
6.) Chrome/Metallic kits are not perfect. There will still be parts you need to paint or use decals on. And anyone who's painted models (of any sort) before will tell you: if two parts have different base colors, but you need to paint them the same color, the result will not be the same color (i.e. one part is black, one part is white, you need to paint them both red--the result is two different shades of red).
7.) What if you want to customize it, then?
Chrome plated kits always come in more expensive price than the normal version. And if I end up painting it, there's no point to the expensive coating anymore. I could get a normal version and paint it chrome.
the MG gpo1fb kit which came in chrome/metallic finish was poorly made, the cut offs on each piece would show up, example the head piece. the kit overall was a horrible kit as a chrome/metallic finish
The nubs (like many mentioned) are uber visible when you cut them off the runners. Also, whether or not I give my model a custom color scheme, I always add top coat. I only got one metallic coating model (the zaku warrior Lacus Clyne special edition) and Im glad I tested a runner first. The topcoat eats away at the metallic coating making it look horrible.
yeah i learnt that as well when i was building my gp01bf MG. spraying onto of the chrome eats the colour away
What brand of topcoat are you using? If you use an Acrylic Spray (Mr. Color Spray UV Cut), I don't think it should do that. Acrylic paints are (to my knowledge) mild. Don't know about Lacquer and Enamel, though I use Lacquer sprays on my kits and have no problems.
The only time I've seen a Gunpla kit literally melt after spraying was when a friend of mine used Tamiya Polycarbonate paint (PS-series paints) on a Gunpla--never use those, they're meant for RC bodies, not static models.
What brand of topcoat are you using? If you use an Acrylic Spray (Mr. Color Spray UV Cut), I don't think it should do that. Acrylic paints are (to my knowledge) mild. Don't know about Lacquer and Enamel, though I use Lacquer sprays on my kits and have no problems.
The only time I've seen a Gunpla kit literally melt after spraying was when a friend of mine used Tamiya Polycarbonate paint (PS-series paints) on a Gunpla--never use those, they're meant for RC bodies, not static models.
When I got my model, I tested the Mr. Color Laquer clear coat. It ate away at the metallic runners. Since that, I didnt even bother using it. The can sits in my box to this day full. Since then, I switched over Mr. Topcoat. Works like a charm :]
Baby shampoo is best, dish liquid can also be used. Very little soap is needed for 1 cup of water.
Yes you can paint over chrome. Although the finish will be a little fragile. This is why you wash prep the chrome for highest possible bonding of paint to chrome.
Chrome "paint" will give the "candy" effect when painted over with transparent colors.
Chrome "plate" will give the "Chrome Color" effect when painted over with transparent colors, Red Chrome, Green Chrome, Blue Chrome, etc. etc. etc.
De-plating: (***Safety Classes & Rubber Gloves***)
Use a liquid drain opener in a small PLASTIC bowl or cup to "strip" the chrome off the part you wish. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes usually. When the chrome is gone from the part, run cold water over the part for several minutes to make sure there is no more drain cleaner left on it.
Some chrome parts you want chrome, some chrome parts you don't want chrome. :)+)
P.S. If the chrome pieces are really badly contaminated you could use unscented rubbing alcohol and preferably a lint free cloth. As always, users mileage may vary....
Never bought a chrome plate gundam befre but heard from a friend that the unicorn titanium version sucksss cause its easily scratch and reveals nub-marks that are not white? and it cost a bomb? about 2000 yen mre expensive then the normal version. Heard it from my friend not sure if its true since i nvr bought a chrome plated gundam :D