Gundam airbrushing project.
Thu 2010/01/14 10:36 JST
Having my airbrush kit and paint up and ready for over a week now, I started my first Gundam paint project.
Chose a pretty simple RX-78/C.A. kit.
Have a kit assembled and fitted. Ready for break up and paint.
Painted the pieces, and let the paint dry for a day or so.
Don't know if the Tamiya acrylics are that bad or is it I did something wrong, but the coat can be scraped off with a finger nail. V_V...
You used a primer for the pieces first?
Nope, hadn't heard that it's a necessity. I do have same Tamiya acrylic flat base paint, but what's the point? It'll scrape off as well. Should I probably use lacquer paint - i.e. spray can, I do have couple Tamiya's as well. Don't want, though, they'll stink as hell.
aren't you supposed to top coat it afterward? Probably your ratio with thinner to acrylic is wrong
The paint was not mixed well and your pait thinner ratio may be off.
How to get rid of the paint - soak the kit water for 3-5 days to soften the paint, I'm assuming you used acrylics on it. Then brush clean with an old toothbrush and dry.
Once dry you can use grey automotive car primer (sold in spray cans) for primer, and let dry for 1 day.
Before airbrushing your kit test your painting technique on scrap kits or paper, once happy with your skills, you can start painting.
Ratio of paint to thinner should be 3 parts paint and 7 parts thinner (must have the consistency of milk), again test your mixture first. When you are happy with the results start painting. Don't forget to seal your model with either matt or gloss varnish.
are you sure you should be using automotive primer?
I use automotive primer too and it works with no problem.
Yes, it actually sprays thinly, just use light coats (misting) to gradually build up the paint not spray all at one go. Don't worry it won't eat thru the plastic.
Okay, first, this is your fault. You don't use primer and you didn't top coat which are NECESSARY parts of a GOOD paint job. Second, acrylic paint is a bit weaker than enamel and lacquer, but whatever paint you use is going to be scratched by your HARD FINGERNAILS! What do you think paint is?! It doesn't get absorbed by the plastic and magically change composition color! Ignorance is one thing, but don't start blaming your mistakes on good products.
Gees! Breathe out, fella! Guarding Tamiya paint like you are on their pay roll.
I'm certainly not an imbecile, and under no conditions shall stand your mockery.
It's not mockery, what he's saying is the truth. Before you even start painting, you should research... Apparently you did not causing for these problems.
give a guy a break man
A bit harsh on your comment but I definitely agree..
@topic: I don't think there's any paint at all that really sticks to any surface and can't be scratched.. If you want the paint to really be protected try using topcoat.
The acrylic paints are easy to scrape off with the finger nails, and very easy to make the wrong ratio xD Don't look at this as a problem, you just need to use an top coat after the last layer of paint and it will not scrape off anymore. The enamels are different and usually have an layer more "consistent" than the acrylic ones. The primer is not obrigatory but is very very recomended.Pratice makes perfect, with plamos this is the truth, the more you paint, better your paint will be :D I hope you can understand my english >_< I'm sorry xD
Well, indeed. Practice, practice, practice. Was told to mix paint ~50/50, right there might be an mistake of mine. Saw on youtube to clear cote after assembly and decal application.
You can use Johnsons Klear Wax (don't know what they call it in the US but here in the UK it's Klear) to clear coat areas where decals are to be applied so they will stick nicely and evenly. You may have to use a setting solution to decal uneven areas (i.e. Microsol/Microset), these are available in most model shops. As Kamo-kun said practice makes perfect.
The stuff I used was called solvaset for the water decals. But that was some time ago.
Whoa!!
Trial and error :] Thats what I had to go through. Just keep trying and definitely give primer a shot. Not only does it look better, but it gives the paint something to stick on.
we all make mistakes ^^ hell i have too. but dont take the 1 or 2 rude ones here seriously. bet they fked up too.
It' a trial & error thing...once ur in it....u"ll learn much more...practice & patience....that's all of us should have....besides...otaku's never quit ...right...?___(n_n)...gambatte kudasai...!
FYI any type of paint will peel off if you're intent on really scratching it (don't blame it on the product). =__=
Apply some topcoat next time.. And word of advice, don't scratch it the paint off, it will surely get scratched. Let it cure for a few days at least..
Well, as it turned out to be, primer - that's the ultimate solution. Used regular spray-can primer for automotive plastic, worked just magnificent. Before paint will scratch off even with bare fingers or accidental scrape during assembly. Now, it's rock solid, 4 hours after painting I'm handling pieces without any trouble.
Kudos to the blokes that suggested priming the parts first.
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