Rx 178 corruption
Mon 2010/01/18 17:15 JST
3rd gundam
cnc appreciated!
3rd gundam
cnc appreciated!
Mirai Gaia ( All Your Base Are Belong To Us )
- Your paintjob still needs plenty of work. Paint your kits before final assembly, not afterwards. That right knee looks awful!
- Rearranging the Bazooka cartidge onto the beam rifle isn't really sensible. That and the IC chip on the chest look too obviously 'stuck-on' to look good. Give your mods some thought--it has to look like it belongs on the kit.
- Use Tamiya Cement to seal the joint lines, then sand them. It helps to make the kit appear more uniform.
- Overcoat with dull cote or semi-gloss clear paint (spray). Most minor paint blemishes only turn up because of the gloss paint, so a flat coat will hide it. Plus, how many real-world military vehicles today come out with shiny glossy paint?
It looks obvious that the red cockpit isn't painted. This is why you finish the kit with a clear coat, so the entire kit looks uniform.
The IC chip doesn't belong on the kit. You have to add in custom pieces to a ANY kit only if they fit. This looks just tacked-on.
What are these holes for?
Paint on right knee is badly smudged. You either used too much and wiped it off, or you touched it while it was still wet.
These are a bit OK, but you could try and make them look more defined, like they're reactive armor parts, or some sort of field repair to the shield.
The Bazooka magazine looks unwieldy here. It would be a lot better if you modded the bazooka into a Grenade launcher under the beam rifle. But the Bazooka mag by itself just looks weird.
You really should either thin your paints more, or else use a spray-on paint. The buildup is too thick on this kit.
The glue and adjustment is pretty obvious here.
looks like you haven't improved much from the last time you posted. paint still looking a bit too think especially on the face and the texture is...just bad.
You're pretty good with weathering, but not with actual painting it seems. Painting and weathering are completely different skills--I should know; my weathering skills are utter crap, but I generally can do a good paint (assuming I'm ot in a hurry and screw up like I did with my F90 conversion)...
I'll give you an A for effort, everyone has to start somwhere. Painting is not just dipping brushes in paint ant smothering whatever it is you paint, you must also look at the technical side of things. I'll give you a few tips as well, I'm not really a gunpla modeller, but a military modeller for 25yrs. I have built a few Gunplas on commission for clients, but never kept one for myself.(Painting a gundam should't be that different to painting a tank)
- I agree with wavehawk on the seams, but dont just use plain tamiya cement on it. Shave of small thin bits of plastic from the sprue and dissolve it in some thin (the green capped bottle) tamiya cement and use it as glue or filler, it will fill in gaps much better, just trim it when its dry, then sand it with fine steel wool, you will get a very smooth finish.
-Wash your model in soap and water first before painting, it gets rid of mould release agent which hampers paint adhesion, as well as dust and fibers from the steel wool, and dry it thouroughly. A clean model will give a better finish.
-Use primer for better paint coverage, it will also show any blemishes or gaps which need filling prior to painting, as well as hiding any plastic you may miss painting later.
-Brush paint or airbrush? Get a good set paintbrushs, you get what you pay for(Games Workshop/Citadel Brushes are good for beginners). Always check the consistency of your paint. It's better to have thin paint which can be gradually built up with several coats, than 1 application of thick paint which obscures fine details. Paint in one direction only.
-Seal your kit with either matt varnish, or gloss varnish, it will protect the paintwork, will give a very uniform appearance.
-Kitbashing is good, experiment on what you can add, however you must show a plausible explanation on how it is attached there. A good example would be adding bolts or weld seams on the Ic chip.
-Practice makes perfect, the more kits you do the more experience you get. Try comparing your previous to what you have at the moment and contemplate on which part need improvement, set the bar higher after each kit.
-Have fun building your kit, that's whats important. You cannot please everybody but what counts is you are pleased with your own work.
Whew! that was a bit long winded. I would recommend you invest on an airbrush, Tamiya sprayworks is a good start. If you need further help, feel free to ask!
I think the glue-only on seams works with Gunpla because they're pretty well-built and parts fit near-perfect (unlike some stuff I've built from Italeri and Hobby Boss). Usually I'd use putty for gap filling. But good advice nonetheless.
ill give you praise for effort but damn, thats some thick paint you whacked on the kit
wow. Really grateful for all the comments posted here! Big thanks for all the helpful info.
i actually posted these photos on another forum and got similiar comments- paint too thick, mods out. of place. I used spraycans for this build and i spray around 15 cm away ( too near) from the piece. what happens is that bubbles form and the surface is inconsistent. Next model ill try spraying 30cm away for better results.
I got a question tho- how do you guys build your models?
Now i usually
- wash in soap water
-cut the parts from runners
-wet sand
-plaplate
-snap fit major parts ( arm/leg/waist/etc)
-primer
-paint ( hand/airbrush/spraycan)
- snapfit everything
- top coat ( on this occasion gloss)
- mods ( not plaplte, im talking bout ic chips and the sort)
-finishing touches
-topcoat again
any advice on a better routine? also, how many rounds of topcoats must i spray and how long must i wait for cure before panel line washing?
many thanks
hakko=)
Washing it with soap because it has residue is a myth.. Unless it has dust all over any washing is not needed. And you do mods before primer.. Not after it's painted xD
Wait at least 24 hrs for the paint to cure.. You only need about 2 coatings of topcoat
It depends on the model. Gundam models are clean. Other kits (i.e. not Gundam, but real mode kits) will have some residue, you can actually feel it when you take it out of the plastic pack *coughcoughAoshimaCoughcough*
Forgot to say that the residue myth are for gunplas..
Spray no more closer than 30cm.. xD
Me its pretty straightforward.
Cut parts from runner
Use hobby knife to cut the nub
Sand the numbs and any seamlines showing
Wash the pieces with water and soap and let it soak in there for a good 6-8 hours
Snap fit parts which have the same colour like the inner frame. If theres a different coloured part, place it aside for a that particular paint colour
Some people use primer, but I dont. What i do is whack a layer of paint letting it dry before placing another layer of paint. Make sure you thin your paints ( depend on what paints you use too as I usually use enamel paints. But im getting to use acrylics and at the same time, im phasing out my collection of enamels slowly)
Snapfit each and every part
finish it with topcoat ( I use mat as i like the texture of it)
Decals.
I never stray towards the mods since im very noob, until i get some experience, i wont delve into it. sometimes its good to experiment, but i would suggest to do it on a cheap HG. Mines always been the GSD zaku warriors as to me theyre indispensable :)
word of advice like the rest of here. never add mods unless it deems neccesary. You added plaplate on the shield, but it doesnt add much to the kit in the end. same with the ic chip. to me, it looks out of place
Paint is too thick resulting in bad texture.. Overall you did one fine mess here same as the Geara Zulu. xD
How exactly do you paint your kits? I'm seeing lots and lots of drips and smudges, try spraying as thin as you can, about 2 coats will do fine (both on paint and primer) and let it cure for at least 24 hrs.
I repeat let it dry for AT LEAST 24 hrs and no less than that.. ;D
I let my painted parts dry for 1-3 hours ( paints i use now dry quicker then you can say a full 4 lined paragraph hee hee) this is with both enamels and acrylics which i currently got in my paint collection ( both tamiya and citadel)
Your point in saying that? We're not here to see who can build and paint a gunpla faster you know, let it dry for at least 24 hrs.. There's no real reason to rush =P
And the topic user are using spraycans while you're hand painting your gunpla, two different things.
im just saying theres no reason to let it dry for 24 hrs. and no arein my point is not to build a kit in the quickest time possible.
He's from Singapore judging from that there's a high chance that he's using either Tamiya, Bosny or RJ London as his spraycans.. Those doesn't completely dry as fast in 3 hrs.. Always would look dry on the surface but would smudge if you put force on it upon assembly..
And why comment on how long do dry paint from spraycans when you yourself aren't using them >__<
well i didnt know he was spraying his kits. so i wouldnt have known otherwise till now
you should try and get a few citadel paints. youll like how fast they dry :)
Dang dood. As long as you enjoy and like what youre doing. But, what kind of paints are you using ? Use multiple thin layers of paint if youre going to use rattle cans. Are you using an airbrush ? If so, you might want to fix your thinner/paint ratios. The paint on this model are really thick as a few have mentioned. But its a learning process and we all had to go through the same thing im sure ! Keep at it !
Negative comments aside, since there are already many of them. this kit is gonna be a good experience for you. You can always try to remove the paint if u want that gundam to look better. Research first on how to remove paint before removing them on your own..
if he didnt use any glue along the way to put the outer frame parts on, getting rid of the paint used on it would be a snap