Seam line removal tutorial
Ello guys, I have here a mini - tutorial of how to remove seam lines on your Gunpla, though this is basically a part of my WIP on the AC White Glint build. I just removed the seam lines of the AC White Glint, actually I just applied cement and I will sand it soon. I figured that this part of the AC WIP could be a small tutorial on how you remove seam lines using Tamiya Cement and Tamiya Thin Cement. Both types does the job well, they just use different methods when applied. The most important TIP here is that both cements dries in minutes BUT cures overnight...so let the cement cure before sanding.
HERE is the mini tutorial - http://dc23-mecharts.blogspot.com/2010/03/seamline-removal-ac-white-glint-wip.html
Hope this could be helpful to a few of you. thanks for viewing! ;)
Now lets go through the simple steps with pictures...
Nice to see DC-23 here!
This tutorial looks good.
I don't know why, but i don't care much about the seamline on my figs >_>, maybe I'm too lazy for trying remove these lines ^^;;;
Yeap, been here for some time now. hihi...try it bro, it's easy. :)
Great tutorial!! But too lazy to remove all the seam lines of my model kits^^;
Thanks, try it one day bro...it looks a ton better without the seam lines. :)
this is going to be very handy. thanks mate
No prob man...seam line removal just sounds difficult, but it's simple with the right tools. ;)
Great Tutorial. Mind if I added you to my blogroll?
Thanks bro! will add your blog on my blog list in return. ;)
Forgot where I learned this awhile back, but it is truly a handy technique. Thanks for sharing !
my pleasure bro. ;)
Now I know what I have been doing wrong XD. I should have left them overnight instead of letting it dry for a while then sanding it down haha. Thanks for this
Yeap, they dry to touch in a few minutes but are still soft and curing inside. let it dry for at least a couple of hours or better yet just let them cure overnight for good measure. :)
Thanks for the tutorial. I was wondering why I had so many problems with seam lines, I've been doing it wrong all along.
It's fairly easy once you get the hang of it...it is sometimes actually fun at some point. hihi. ;)
I'm gonna presume once you remove the seam line, you can't separate the parts?
But what if you have to? Say you need to paint a part by removing it and doing it separately, but if you seam lined it, you can't. And if you didn't remove the seam yet and you already painted it, you can't sand it down or it'll ruin the paint.
^ has always bugged me about it all :\
Yes bro...you can't separate the parts after...example are the usual Gundam heads...you have to modify the face parts so that after gluing the two halves of the head, you can easily insert the face parts....I have it in one of my wips in ZeroGunz...will look for it if you like. :)
You can cut along the seam line using a knife, but yeah, that'll probably mess up the work you did sealing the two part together in the first place.
This is why you SHOULD:
1.) read through and study the assembly manual BEFORE building the kit.
2.) TEST-FIT parts.
Obviously, reading the manual before assembly allows you to see where you -might- have problems when assembling/cementing/painting your kit. If you test-fit parts prior to final assembly, you can be sure you've got it right before you do the final cement-and-seal.
PRE-PREP. This is something I find most Gunpla modellers don't do, then they whine like babies when they screw up a kit, blaming it on Bandai.
This is a MODEL KIT, not a TOY.
Good guide. You should ideally cement your Gunpla, not only to remove the seamline, but so the two parts will be welded properly together. I find a majority of peoples' problems with Gunpla being flimsy are solved simply by cementing the parts together.
Thing is, this usually works for current-era HGUCs and the like. The older 1980's-earlier kits will sometimes need more work. I've had to use Tamiya Putty to fill some really old, uneven seam lines on Gunpla. And for most 'normal' plastic models, this may also be the method.
Thanks wavehawk, thanks for the informagtive insights! I put white glue on parts that does not need seam line removal...in that way they are sturdy. ;)
i own a white glint, and finished with it
though i could say, i burnt a 85U$ for an experiment T_T
alicia unsung won't met the same fate though(another AC kit)
anyway, i have no idea to mod its booster design to not scratching each other but 1
that is, constantly changing to another booster part
means, u have to recast its normal booster
so it can be change to open / closed mode
as for the thigh, cut the inside, there are inside... bones that clamps the black part, right? cut those, and after you did, cement the thigh
this is another plug & unplug method, insert the black part from the upper hole of the thigh
this kit head doesn't have polycap, and it use ball joint, trust me, it will slip, so you might want to fix those
DO NOT CUT THE NECK, any longer or less round than its neck joint will render it to never be able completely into primal mode (the head go inside the torso)
for lower booster, again i dunno how to paint it without seamline left
i say, you should use the seam line as details, not erase it
the fate of my WG lower booster; cracked spots, and plenty of it
for more info,look for scans of hobby japan june 2009 or july 2009
they have guide to made seamless WG, DO NOT FOLLOW THEIR WAY TO REMOVE LOWER BOOSTER SEAM LINE, i did, and it was a mess
seen your latest WIP
you body cutting method is INDIGENOUS!!!!!
once i got 2nd hand white glint (revenge!) i'll follow this method